The Bloody Mary Garnish Gets Garish | Последние новости сегодня в мире культуры



The Bloody Mary Garnish Gets Garish
The Bloody Mary Garnish Gets Garish

The subject of today’s A-hed in the Wall Street Journal is the Bloody Mary garnish boom—and I’m not talking about four olives instead of three.

The subject of todays A-hed in the Wall Street Journal is the Bloody Mary garnish boom—and Im not talking about four olives instead of three. Writer Thomas Vinceguerra describes the Bloody Mary from Party Fowl, a restaurant in Nashville, as "weighing 7½ pounds and requires some muscling. Its garnishes extend about 7 inches up from the rim and 4 inches to the side. They include fried okra, an avocado, baseball-size Scotch eggs—and two Cornish game hens on 12-inch skewers." Which is nothing compared with the garnishes atop the Chicken-Fried Bloody Beast from Sobelmans Pub and Grill in Milwaukee: Lemon, celery stalk, Brussel sprouts, asparagus, onion, scallion, mushroom, shrimp, cheese, pickle, bacon-wrapped jalapeño cheeseballs, and a whole fried chicken. A 70-ounce plastic pitcher supports this large libation. But whats in the pitcher itself? I am reminded of a conversation I once had with the late Michel Richard about the Food Network show Ace of Cakes. I told the French chef that host Duff Goldman made the most amazing-looking Millennium Falcon. "But how does it taste?" he asked. Similarly the importance of the Bloody Mary mix seems to have been lost amid this onslaught of toppings. "As always, I question the wisdom of putting food into cocktails," says Derek Brown, a drinks historian and mixologist who owns several bars in Washington, D.C. "Whenever people are seeking substantial nourishment from alcohol I wonder if a few meetings and some time with a higher power are in order. Drinks are there to drink. And, yes, I know they can straddle the line. Weve used porcini tincture too. But Im talking about your dinner resting on the edge of your glass. If it does, please seek help." Such was not the case in 1934, when Fernand Petiot concocted the first Bloody Mary for customer Serge Obolensky at Manhattans King Cole Bar. Back then, the drink included vodka, tomato juice, salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and an olive garnish—as in one olive. Other garnishes were added along the way, mostly of the pickled variety. But now it seems the toppings have surpassed the drink in importance. We are eating a meal first. Drinking becomes an afterthought. Not that any of this should come as a surprise. The flavored vodka trend (already on a downward slope) was about drinks imitating food: Think of Pinnacle Vodka varieties like Cake and Salted Caramel or Van Goghs PB&J. The Bloody Mary is now about the food—sliders, fried chicken, sausage, and more. The trend is also reminiscent of the Burger Wars of the early 2000s. It began with Daniel Bouluds DB Burger, involving braised short ribs, foie gras, and shaved Périgord black truffle. The Old Homestead Steakhouse fired back with a burger made of Japanese Kobe beef. Then came the Wall Street Burger Shoppes $175 hamburger with foie gras, truffle, and gold leaf flakes (you can tell this was made before the fall of 2008). Then the emphasis reverted to the burger itself—whats in the beef? I imagine the same will one day happen with the Bloody Mary. The focus will be about the basics (bartending legend Gary Regan prefers to add a bit of horseradish, which does wonders). In the meantime, expect more burgers atop your 70-ounce plastic pitcher of Bloody Mary. On the bright side, the burgers will probably be grassfed and hormone-free.
    2018-07-09 19:07:21


How a school in Bradford is beating the odds with music
How a school in Bradford is beating the odds with music
A school in Bradford is achieving impressive results in English and maths, by rebuilding its curriculum around music.
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The 70th annual Emmy awards did not disappoint
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The Brits had a great night at the 70th annual Emmy Awards in Los Angeles but the standout moment was a proposal.
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The Gateshead artist whose work makes you look twice
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Its about creating an illusion whereby you dont know which item is real and which is a drawing.
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Captain Marvel: Why Brie Larsons Carol Danvers is a Marvel game-changer
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What we learned from the first trailer for Brie Larsons debut as Carol Danvers.
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Emmy Awards 2018: Glenn Weiss surprises girlfriend with proposal
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Sesame Workshop says Bert and Ernie are best friends and not gay
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Mercury Prize 2018: Nominees reveal the last thing they changed on their albums
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Lily Allen, Jorja Smith and Noel Gallagher tell us the last thing they changed on their albums.
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Grime star Ghetts on female black identity
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    2018-09-18 18:35:23


The Joker: Joaquin Phoenix and the many faces of Gothams most wanted
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The first photos of Joaquin Phoenix from a new origin story are being shared online.
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Lily Allen discloses sexual assault by record industry executive
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BBC thriller Killing Eve gets thumbs up from critics
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Green Book wins influential Toronto festival award
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The film took the Peoples Choice Award at Toronto Film Festival, an indicator for future prizes.
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Emmy Awards 2018: The 8 best moments (and 1 that didnt happen)
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A marriage proposal, a living legend and some Game of Thrones revelations from George RR Martin.
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Netflix renews fat-shaming series Insatiable
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Tony Hall on taking on media giants Amazon and Netflix
Tony Hall on taking on media giants Amazon and Netflix
British TV will be under threat if UK media rules dont change, according to BBC chief Tony Hall.
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Emmy Awards 2018 red carpet fashion - in pictures
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Take a look at the stars - and, just as importantly, what theyre wearing.
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London Fashion Week 2018: Robots take over the runway
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A catwalk show at London Fashion Week has divided opinions about the future of fashion.
    2018-09-17 14:05:11


Dudley Sutton, aka Lovejoys Tinker, dead aged 85
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Veteran actor Dudley Sutton was known for his role opposite Ian McShanes roguish antiques dealer.
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London Fashion Week: How it feels to walk the runway
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Newsbeat reporter Lindsay Brown goes behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week to find out what its like to walk the runway.
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Why black chat shows are thriving out of the mainstream
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Mainstream media may struggle with diversity but black creators are making their own entertainment.
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Its language, music, question style and sound effects are different but fans of the classic Radio 4 quiz show can still enjoy its Scandinavian cousin.
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Primetime Emmy Awards 2018: 7 things to look out for
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How Sandra Oh could make history and why Donald Glover might have the last laugh.
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Nottingham make-up artists surreal work is Instagram hit
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Romanie Jade-Tullochs mind-bending artworks can take five hours to create.
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Toronto Film Festival: Keira Knightley criticises period drama negativity
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Costume dramas are not considered serious because they often focus on women, the actress claims.
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Sydneys Defqon 1 music festival: Authorities call for ban after two drugs deaths
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Two people died of suspected drugs overdoses at Sydneys Defqon One and hundreds sought help.
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It is a choir with a difference that sees power in shouting.
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Its Prince, thinking aloud on the piano
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A Very Brief Thought on Netflix’s ‘Norm Macdonald Has a Show’
A Very Brief Thought on Netflix’s ‘Norm Macdonald Has a Show’

“You don’t get to not like it, you didn’t fucking get it.” Norm Macdonald says that as he explains to Drew Barrymore why he gets annoyed by people who complain about not liking jokes after they admitted they hadn’t gotten the joke. Barrymore herself has not gotten several of Norm’s jokes in the episode, but …

    2018-09-14 15:35:59

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