The Bloody Mary Garnish Gets Garish | Последние новости сегодня в мире культуры



The Bloody Mary Garnish Gets Garish
The Bloody Mary Garnish Gets Garish

The subject of today’s A-hed in the Wall Street Journal is the Bloody Mary garnish boom—and I’m not talking about four olives instead of three.

The subject of todays A-hed in the Wall Street Journal is the Bloody Mary garnish boom—and Im not talking about four olives instead of three. Writer Thomas Vinceguerra describes the Bloody Mary from Party Fowl, a restaurant in Nashville, as "weighing 7½ pounds and requires some muscling. Its garnishes extend about 7 inches up from the rim and 4 inches to the side. They include fried okra, an avocado, baseball-size Scotch eggs—and two Cornish game hens on 12-inch skewers." Which is nothing compared with the garnishes atop the Chicken-Fried Bloody Beast from Sobelmans Pub and Grill in Milwaukee: Lemon, celery stalk, Brussel sprouts, asparagus, onion, scallion, mushroom, shrimp, cheese, pickle, bacon-wrapped jalapeño cheeseballs, and a whole fried chicken. A 70-ounce plastic pitcher supports this large libation. But whats in the pitcher itself? I am reminded of a conversation I once had with the late Michel Richard about the Food Network show Ace of Cakes. I told the French chef that host Duff Goldman made the most amazing-looking Millennium Falcon. "But how does it taste?" he asked. Similarly the importance of the Bloody Mary mix seems to have been lost amid this onslaught of toppings. "As always, I question the wisdom of putting food into cocktails," says Derek Brown, a drinks historian and mixologist who owns several bars in Washington, D.C. "Whenever people are seeking substantial nourishment from alcohol I wonder if a few meetings and some time with a higher power are in order. Drinks are there to drink. And, yes, I know they can straddle the line. Weve used porcini tincture too. But Im talking about your dinner resting on the edge of your glass. If it does, please seek help." Such was not the case in 1934, when Fernand Petiot concocted the first Bloody Mary for customer Serge Obolensky at Manhattans King Cole Bar. Back then, the drink included vodka, tomato juice, salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and an olive garnish—as in one olive. Other garnishes were added along the way, mostly of the pickled variety. But now it seems the toppings have surpassed the drink in importance. We are eating a meal first. Drinking becomes an afterthought. Not that any of this should come as a surprise. The flavored vodka trend (already on a downward slope) was about drinks imitating food: Think of Pinnacle Vodka varieties like Cake and Salted Caramel or Van Goghs PB&J. The Bloody Mary is now about the food—sliders, fried chicken, sausage, and more. The trend is also reminiscent of the Burger Wars of the early 2000s. It began with Daniel Bouluds DB Burger, involving braised short ribs, foie gras, and shaved Périgord black truffle. The Old Homestead Steakhouse fired back with a burger made of Japanese Kobe beef. Then came the Wall Street Burger Shoppes $175 hamburger with foie gras, truffle, and gold leaf flakes (you can tell this was made before the fall of 2008). Then the emphasis reverted to the burger itself—whats in the beef? I imagine the same will one day happen with the Bloody Mary. The focus will be about the basics (bartending legend Gary Regan prefers to add a bit of horseradish, which does wonders). In the meantime, expect more burgers atop your 70-ounce plastic pitcher of Bloody Mary. On the bright side, the burgers will probably be grassfed and hormone-free.
    2018-07-09 19:07:21


Tamino: The new Sound of the Nile?
Tamino: The new Sound of the Nile?
The singer and grandson of celebrated Egyptian star Moharam Fouad on mixing his European upbringing with his middle eastern roots.
    2018-12-06 16:05:48


Blackfishing: The women accused of pretending to be black
Blackfishing: The women accused of pretending to be black
Newsbeat speaks to two influencers accused of blackfishing and looks at why its so controversial.
    2018-12-06 16:05:38


Katie Price: The ups and downs of her life
Katie Price: The ups and downs of her life
From a £1million wedding to narrowly escaping bankruptcy - the Pricey has had a turbulent life and career.
    2018-12-06 16:05:22


RuPaul’s Drag Race coming to BBC Three in 2019
RuPaul’s Drag Race coming to BBC Three in 2019
The global reality TV hit will be on the hunt for a new Queen of Great Britain.
    2018-12-05 12:35:43


BBC drops plans for Brexit TV debate between May and Corbyn
BBC drops plans for Brexit TV debate between May and Corbyn
The broadcaster offered to air a debate, but Labour had criticised the proposed format.
    2018-12-05 01:35:18


Cromer Pier a star of BBC One this Christmas
Cromer Pier a star of BBC One this Christmas
Cromer appears in BBC One idents before programmes and a short film about spending time with family.
    2018-12-05 01:07:05


Turner Prize 2018: Film-using art activists in the running
Turner Prize 2018: Film-using art activists in the running
Video and film dominate the shortlist for this years prize, whose winner is announced later.
    2018-12-04 13:36:16


YouTube top earners: The seven-year-old making $22m
YouTube top earners: The seven-year-old making $22m
An American boy who reviews toys is this years highest-earning YouTube star, according to Forbes.
    2018-12-03 22:05:34


2018 WAFCA Winners
2018 WAFCA Winners

As a film critic of medium-low importance, one of my most sacred duties is participating in the Washington Area Film Critics Association (WAFCA) year-end awards extravaganza. During this hallowed time of year, I watch dozens of movies and mine my own recollection of the good, the bad, and the ugly to determine what, precisely, the best films of the year were. At the end of this grueling process—this death march through endless stacks of DVDs, searching for the rarest pearl in an ever-increasing sea of muck—we WAFCA members nominate up to five films/people in each category. The five films/people who earn the most votes in every category are then voted upon by the whole of the membership, the winners are chosen, the press release is sent out, and blessed, blessed relief descends upon us as we put the exercise to rest for 11 months.

    2018-12-03 18:07:03


PewDiePie in battle with T-Series to keep top YouTube spot
PewDiePie in battle with T-Series to keep top YouTube spot
PewDiePie is battling Indian channel T-Series in a bid to remain the YouTuber with the most subscribers.
    2018-12-03 15:36:30


Take That have fastest-selling album of 2018 so far
Take That have fastest-selling album of 2018 so far
Howard Donald, Gary Barlow and Mark Owens greatest hits tops the UK chart on its first week of release.
    2018-11-30 20:06:52

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